The Glide by Matt Pearson

THE GLIDE

"Most surfers can probably remember back to the time when they caught their first ride on the unbroken face of a wave, and almost certainly can all recall that first stoke inducing feeling. This is THE GLIDE.

As time goes on, though, and we seemingly progress as surfers, things tend to get a little more complicated.

Influences ranging from fellow surfers at the beach to pro-surfers, and the surfing industry may have affected our attitude and side-track us into ways of surfing which has made us lose touch with the simple pleasure that we seek - that of effortlessly gliding along a wave. I have seen how riding equipment not designed for local conditions (e.g. trying to surf on boards with elf-shoe rocker in the gutless British surf) just leads to frustration and a sense of failure.

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Full article HERE

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